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introduction : calibration : troubleshooting

Troubleshooting Skipping Needles

So you've done all that and its still not happening for you. So lets start with the settings I use.

Mandrick's Settings using Shure M44-7s

If you are still having no luck and are using Technics and some Shure M44-7s, here's the settings I use.

Load the cartridge and stylus so the end of the cartridge is flat to the edge of the head shell. The screws should be mounted about half way down on either side of slits in the head shell.

Height is set to 3.5 and locked in place (not too tight as technics can be a nightmare to release again. Just push the leaver round until you feel it go firm. That'll be enough to hold it in place without risk of future damage should you want to change the setting (especially as it may take several goes when your setting up your turntables fin the first instance.

Anti skate set to 0.

Your settings don't work for me and it STILL skips !!

So you've applied the above tried scratching and it still doesn't work; you're needles won't stay in that groove. OK this may be the case and what works for me may not work for you. There are many factors that must be considered. Check the list below to ensure you have followed and checked all of them:

Decks -

Forget doing this on cheap budget decks, to scratch properly you need a high end quality deck. Technics, Vestax or the top Stanton decks. You may find on other decks that you can limit the amount of skips but you'll have to cater to the limits of your decks not have the free-roam to do as you please and the decks doing what you ask of them.

Needles -
If they are new they need wearing in so a little skipping should be expected. This should ease with use and become less frequent. If they are old they could need replacing.

Vinyl -
Must be flat and unwarped. The hole must be tight around the spindle. If its loose and you can feel/see sideways movement of the record you need to make the hole smaller so its tighter and the spindle gets tighter to the hole.

There are several options. Obviously you can't make the hole in the record bigger but you can make the spindle itself in effect bigger, or simply plug the gap.

Get a round stationary sticker that's about an inch/3cm or so across and stick it to the reverse side of the record (opposite side to the sample you want to scratch, right in the middle of the record OVER the hole. With the label now on the underside and the sample you want facing up, place the record over the spindle and when its bang in the middle, gently push down. The spindle will poke up through the stationary label and up through the hole creating a very snug fit.

If you use a record that has a large centre hole but want to use both sides again rectangular stationary labels are handy rather than using round ones. Cut a couple of strips a few mm's in width (so it will fit through the hole of the record) and about 6 cm long and poke it halfway through the record. Fix the label on both sides to the vinyl. Try it now and see if it still skips. If its still wobbly, put a second strip next to the first. Poke it through and bend it down sticking one side to the vinyl as you did before, repeating for the side still poking out. Carry on with this putting them next to each other until its tight. You will be surprised how long this technique will last, without having to reapply more chopped up labels!

Ensure the vinyl you are using is good quality. Poorly pressed vinyl (or thin vinyl especially) may not be cut so deep so the grooves are shallower than is ideal. Even on well calibrated certain bits of vinyl I have are not as good as others in my collection. If its a sample you have used a lot over time you may have worn the groove. This will be easy to spot as the grooves will look, well worn. You can tell this just be looking at it so no science needed! The grooves will look chalky and a lightly greyer colour if this is the case. Only really applies to a heavily used particular part of a record. A worn record means worn grooves which can not help the skipping situation.

Slipmatts -

You need thin good quality matts. Recommended are the Butterug V2. The down sides to these are they are very static-y so most times when you lift the record off after mixing it the matt sticks to the vinyl and the two usually come off together. A little annoying but still the most slippy matts you can buy. If you want to try and increase the slippy quality of your decks for much cheaper alternatives then click here.

Your Mixing Table / Desk

This is often forgotten and was the initial cause of all my problems. Its all well and good having the best cartridges and the best decks with skip proof turntablist records, all calibrated perfectly if what they are sitting in wobbles in the wind or every time you cue up a record. I can't stress enough that your table must be firm and rigid. If you can hold the table top and when you push it, the hinges holding the legs on move or the legs bend depending on which way you push it, its no good. Even if it moves a bit it could be enough to ruin your mixing experience. You have to have a sturdy table. Should you find your table does move and wobble your decks will always skip no matter what your equipment.

Try applying some support to the legs by adding screw on brackets which can be bought from any DIY shop. These are attached one side to the table leg (assuming it wooden legs) and the underside of the table. Rigidity at a fraction of the cost of buying a new table.

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